Updated September 2026: we added current, practical tips for visiting Comuna 13 (getting there, tours, the escalators and etiquette). The story and photos are from Geron’s original visit.
Ever since I first arrived in Medellin in 2015, I had always been fascinated by city’s past and the stories of violence and strife that once plagued this city. History, especially history within my lifetime, has always been of interest to me.
I recently went to Comuna 13, once labeled the most dangerous neighborhood in Medellin, Colombia due to it’s extremely high homicide rate. Located on the side of a mountain in the San Javier area, this neighborhood was once a center for paramilitary, guerrilla and gang activity due to its ideal location for moving drugs and anything else in and out of the city.
It’s since undergone a dramatic transformation due to innovative urban regeneration, street art, and community solidarity. In order to fully understand the history and troubles that have plagued the area and its subsequent reformation, it’s best to explore the area with a local guide. I’d recommend Medellin City Services, as their knowledge of the history of this neighborhood and the artists offer an unparalleled experience.
A Brief History of Comuna 13
In the 1980s and 1990s, the neighborhood was run by groups loyal to Pablo Escobar as well as rebel guerrillas groups including the FARC and ELN. In October 2002, the Colombian military and police carried out a huge operation to overthrow all the rebel groups in Comuna 13. At the time, the Comuna had about 100,000 residents. During this operation, nine people were killed, including three children, while many others, including civilians, were injured.
The left-wing guerrillas groups were ultimately eliminated or expelled from the Comuna, however, the right-wing guerrilla groups soon took over. Things calmed down but were not what anyone would describe as ideal.
The youth and the community in the neighborhood took action, and rather than falling into the gang life, many focused their energy in the form of art and community events. Music, especially hip hop, and graffiti became a way for the youth to express themselves.
The violence slowed but, while the youth rebelled, many of the gangs still held their ground. The violence and killings continued and as recently of 2010, Comuna 13 was still the most violent neighborhood in Medellin.
Comuna 13 Today
After many years of neglect, a substantial amount of money was invested to improve the quality of life of the inhabitants in Comuna 13. Due to the investments in accessibility an other urban innovations, residents quality of life has drastically changed for the better for the inhabitants of Comuna 13 and the neighborhood has transformed itself.
As I walked through the community, I saw several kids playing in the streets and alleyways, hip hop artists and witnessed a dance performance. Tourist had come from all over the world to view the artwork and the outdoor escalators, a testament to the change the neighborhood has undergone. The neighborhood also offers stunning views of the community and the city below.
The people of Comuna 13 are very welcoming and excited to see their neighborhood continue to grow into a positive place. Inhabitants and tourist alike walked the streets and I never once felt unsafe. Although gangs still rule the area, there is a police presence and a relative calm as you move through the community. This positive energy is felt as you walk through the community and talk with residents and vendors.
Graffiti
The graffiti throughout the community have become a canvas to tell the colorful story of the community’s difficult past, as well as, hope for a peaceful and prosperous future. The art and music you will encounter in this community have been used as a means of expressing discontent with the violence that occurred in the community.
The benefit of doing the tour with Medellin City Services is that they were able to tell us the story behind much of the artwork. Artists hailed from all over the world, some even from Comuna 13 itself. Check out some of the artwork below.
Electric Outdoor Escalators
The electric escalators were constructed in 2011 and are one of the icons of the rebirth of Medellin. These outdoor escalators were built to connect and provide access to many of the homes that were isolated from their neighbors and the city below.
Prior to construction of the escalators, residents had a tumultuous climb of 350 steep steps of 1259 feet, which took about 25 minutes. Now the trip can be done in as little as 6 minutes.
How To Visit Comuna 13
As mentioned, it’s best to have a guide to give you the complete perspective of everything you’re seeing in Comuna 13. While many companies offer this tour, I recommend Medellin City Services due to their in depth knowledge, ease of booking, and flexibility.
A visit to this community is definitely well worth it if you’re in Medellin. It provides an authentic feel that you may not get by staying in the otherwise affluent and touristy areas of Medellin. It also provided me not only the in depth history lesson that I was looking for, but allowed me to see how art and dance are woven into its history and subsequent revitalization.
Visiting Comuna 13 Today: Practical Tips
Comuna 13 has become one of the most visited places in Medellín, so a little planning goes a long way. Here is what we would tell a friend heading there now.
How to get to Comuna 13
The simplest route is the Medellín Metro. Take Line B to San Javier, the last stop on the line. From the station it is roughly a one-kilometre uphill walk to the escalators and the main street-art area, or a short taxi or local bus ride if you would rather save your legs for the neighborhood itself. Many tours meet right outside San Javier station, which makes it an easy landmark.
Guided tour or on your own?
You can walk the main route on your own, but a local guide is still the best way to understand what you are looking at. So much of the art refers to specific events, people and struggles that are easy to miss without context. Options range from tip-based walking tours, often led by guides who grew up in the neighborhood, to paid small-group tours (around COP 80,000 per person at the time of writing) that sometimes add street food or a ride on the Metrocable. Most tours last two to four hours.
The outdoor escalators
The escalators run in six sections up the hillside and replaced roughly 350 steep steps that residents once climbed every day. They are public infrastructure and free to ride. Stop at the landings: that is where you will find some of the best murals and views over the city.
Tips for a respectful, comfortable visit
- Go earlier in the day. The main route gets crowded from late morning, especially on weekends and holidays.
- Wear comfortable shoes and bring water, sunscreen and a light rain layer. There is a lot of walking and climbing.
- Stick to the main walkways and follow your guide. Comuna 13 is a living residential neighborhood, not an open-air museum.
- Ask before photographing people, especially children and street performers, and tip dancers and musicians if you film them.
- Carry small bills in Colombian pesos and buy from local vendors. A coffee, a paleta or a print from a local artist puts money directly into the community.
- Keep valuables out of sight, as you would in any big city, and check current travel advisories before your trip.
Make a day of it in Medellín
Comuna 13 pairs well with an evening in El Poblado. Read our review of OCI.mde, a must-eat restaurant in Medellín, for a dinner idea. If you have more time in Colombia, fly out to the Caribbean side of the country with our San Andrés Island travel guide. For more experiences like this one, browse our See & Do travel guides.
Comuna 13 FAQ
Is Comuna 13 safe to visit?
The main tourist route is busy and generally considered safe during the day, especially with a guide. Use normal big-city caution, stay on the main paths, and check your government’s current advice for Colombia before you go.
How long should I spend in Comuna 13?
Plan for half a day: two to four hours for a tour or self-guided walk, plus travel time on the Metro.
Do you have to pay to use the Comuna 13 escalators?
No. The escalators are free public infrastructure.
What is the closest Metro station to Comuna 13?
San Javier station, the last stop on Metro Line B.
Geron is an avid traveler, entreprenuer and mens style aficionado. He love’s mac and cheese, getting discounts, his momma, and a good whiskey, not particularly in that order. It’s alleged he lives in Miami, but no one really knows anymore.
Follow him on instagram at @geronp
